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Ambitious Brew: The Story of American Beer, by Maureen Ogle
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Ambitious Brew, the first-ever history of American beer, tells an epic story of American ingenuity and the beverage that became a national standard. Not always America’s drink of choice, beer finally took its top spot in the nation’s glasses when a wave of German immigrants arrived in the mid-nineteenth century and settled in to re-create the beloved biergartens they had left behind. Fifty years later, the American-style lager beer they invented was the nation’s most popular beverage—and brewing was the nation’s fifth-largest industry, ruled over by titans Frederick Pabst and Adolphus Busch. Anti-German sentiments aroused by World War I fed the flames of the temperance movement and brought on Prohibition. After its repeal, brewers replaced flavor with innovations such as flashy marketing and lite beer, setting the stage for the generation of microbrewers whose ambitions would reshape the brew once again.
Grab a glass and a stool as Maureen Ogle pours out the surprising story behind your favorite pint.- Sales Rank: #425702 in Books
- Published on: 2007-10-08
- Released on: 2007-10-08
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.00" h x 1.13" w x 5.25" l, 1.10 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 432 pages
From Publishers Weekly
Conventional wisdom has it that giant breweries, driven by corporate greed, have flooded the U.S. with inferior-tasting swill, and the only beer worth drinking is from scattered boutique microbrewers. Nonsense, says Ogle: companies like Miller and Anheuser-Busch are actually near-perfect embodiments of the American dream (in which "liberty nurtured ambition, and ambition fostered success")—and if their beers became noticeably blander 50 years ago, it's because consumers wanted it that way. Ogle (All the Modern Conveniences) looks back at the early years of brewers like Phillip Best, Frederick Pabst and Adolphus Busch as they rose to success making European-style beers for fellow immigrants, converting plenty of native palates along the way. Such men, she claims, should be heralded as captains of industry like Gilded Age icon J.P. Morgan. This material is strong, as is Ogle's analysis of the slow but steady rise of the Prohibition movement, but her narrative loses momentum as she tries to encompass the post–WWII era and add the most successful microbrewers to her list of heroes. Her exuberant musings on the American spirit become distracting, but there's more than enough drama in the family sagas to keep even the soberest of readers turning the pages. (Oct.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
PRAISE FOR AMBITIOUS BREW
"A fascinating and well-documented social history that sheds fresh light on the bubbly sociable beverage."--Chicago Tribune
"From lager-making German immigrants to today's microbrew-meisters, a sudsy, briskly told survey of American beer. B+."--Entertainment Weekly
From the Back Cover
Beer's history is a tale of gamblers and entrepreneurial visionaries, of ambition and passion. It is the tale of Frederick Pabst, a sea captain who entered the beer business when he married a brewer's daughter and, forty years later, was at the helm of the world's largest brewery - and of Adolphus Busch, his greatest rival. Of Ken Grossman, a California bicycle repairman who built a brewery, Sierra Nevada, with his own two hands. Of Howard Hyde Russell and Wayne Wheeler, who established the organization that produced Prohibition. Of Carl Conrad, who imagined an American version of a Bohemian beer, one he called Budweiser, and Otto Lademan, the St. Louis brewer who tried to steal it from him. Of the Busch, Yuengling, and Leinenkugel families, who have kept their family businesses alive from one generation to the next, in one of the most competitive and volatile of industries. It is a truly American tale . . . .
"Maureen Ogle brings a historian's discipline and a breezy, accessible writing style to a fine addition to the canon of beer literature. This is a must-read for beer geeks and neophytes alike.รข€ --Ken Wells, author of Travels with Barley
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
an astoundingly good business history
By smitka
Ogle is a historian but not an academic. So while this is carefully researched, it's superlatively written, a good read that I assign to students in a course on the Economics of Strategy (aka "Industrial Organization"). It contains a lot of material on the impact of technology on the industry, from the rise of microbiology and refrigeration in the late 1800s to advertising, to the impact of Prohibition on the industry (including downstream distribution) and logistics in the 1960s to the rise of microbreweries today. In class I pair it with a visit to a local, exceptionally well-run microbrewery (Devils Backbone) whose COO can explain how their cost structure has shifted as they've expanded in scale, as well as the impact of the post-Prohibition tiered distribution system in Virginia and surrounding states that prevents them from setting prices to retailers (they charge xxx to their distributor, who then sells on to retailers – Kroger, Food Lion and Giant in this case – who then set their own prices... Ogle provides a great foundation for their being able to ask intelligent questions, and for writing papers.
0 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Thne became too boring.
By Chester F. Wilt
First half interesting. Thne became too boring.
18 of 20 people found the following review helpful.
A story for beer aficionado's, history buffs, or brewing insiders
By Brett A. Saffell
Once I had penetrated the first three chapters of this book, I found it a fascinating and quick read. However, those first three chapters took about two weeks, despite a persistent interest in beer and brewing. I covered the remaining five chapters in two days.
The first several chapters (and 40 or so years of chronology) cover the beginnings of American brewing by explaining the origins of the Best brewery (which would become Pabst), the Uihlein's (Schlitz), and Adolphus Busch. These chapters passed slowly, and didn't entertain the way that popular history can (like Winchester's A Crack in the Edge of the World or Bryson's A Short History of Nearly Everything, Stephen Ambrose, etc).
However, I was extremely engaged by everything that followed. I thought the explanation of the causes and context of Prohibition was excellent. The narrative of changes in brewing in post-World War II America (consolidation, the dawn of modern marketing) was also very interesting, and did a nice job integrating societal and business changes into that story. I erroneously thought I'd experienced first-hand the rise of craft beer in America, but Maureen did a very nice job educating me on the true origins of this trend.
I was bogged down by the beginning of this book, but thrilled with the middle and end of it. This book would be a great resource for beer connoisseurs looking for an understanding of why American brewing is what it is, and as a cautionary tale for brewing executives.
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